"Feral cats and
kittens have a right to life and a right
to be humanely cared for"
Managed Care at Home Site Location
One of the most important factors in
creating a safe and well-managed
environment for feral cats is that
everyone involved be knowledgeable about
their care. There are numerous situations
where the caretaker is not familiar with
information essential to maintaining a
safe home site for the ferals they are
caring for. What usually begins with
feeding a cat or two, can escalate into an
explosion of cats and kittens over a short
period of time.
Feral cat caretaking is a long-term
commitment and it is necessary to
understand how to do it successfully.
There are circumstances where the
caretaker, unknowingly, creates difficult
situations that could have been prevented
with the proper information and action.
Every caretaker should be informed and
educated as to the implementation of trap,
neuter, vaccinate and return. This is to
be carried out as an essential part of
caretaking.
Feeding
Many
complaints are directly related to
feeding. Since feeding is one of the most
important aspects of care, special
detailed information as to how this can be
accomplished successfully, is the first
objective. Refer to Instructions for
Feeding Feral Cats and Feeding Priorities
under Challenging Circumstances.
No matter how friendly the immediate area,
feeding should be done with utmost
discretion, even if you are feeding on
your own property and it is completely
safe and protected. Not all of your
neighbors may be friendly to your
endeavor. Permanent feeding stations
should be protected from the elements,
placed out of sight and, if necessary,
camouflaged. Dry food and water containers
can be covered with dark plastic material
and duct tape or sprayed with an exterior
brown, dark green or black paint. Be
careful not to spray paint on the food and
water surfaces. Four sided box type
structures can be easily made to enclose a
feeding station. Thick art foam board or
any sturdy material that can be cut and
put together with duct tape and glue and
covered with heavy black plastic garbage
bags or other dark plastic materials, with
an opening to place food and water during
the winter months, usually hold up well.
This type of cover would need to be
modified for areas with heavy rains and/or
extremely cold weather.
If the cats are being fed on a daily
basis, without the use of permanent
feeding stations, do not draw unnecessary
attention to where and when they are being
fed. This is especially important in
hostile territory. Do not use white paper
plates. Do not leave plates with food
unless they are out of sight and protected
from the elements. Dark plastic plates or
anything that blends into the surrounding
environment, for all feeding is
recommended. Feeding from cans and leaving
empty cans and food containers will create
an unsightly mess. You can be asking for
trouble.
There
are numerous innovative ways to safely
feed without drawing unnecessary
attention. Look around the area and locate
the best place. Feeding under your vehicle
or one safely parked, in the bushes,
behind dumpsters, in small corners of
buildings, abandoned areas and buildings,
alleys with little or no traffic, behind
structures, near fences, etc. You may need
to move the feeding area to the near
vicinity if it becomes unsafe. In most
cases, having permanent feeding stations
that are out of sight is safer for the
cats. The cats do not need to come out
when you arrive for food, if they feel it
is unsafe. Dry food can be continually
supplied with only the wet food when you
arrive. I cannot
stress enough that feeding stations that
are in sight are, for the most part,
unsafe for the cats. It is better to
have a few small ones hidden, than have
a large obtrusive one. People who do not
like cats have open season with large,
in view feeding stations. This type of
feeding may be more convenient for the
caretaker, but can put the cats in
jeopardy.
Inexpensive plastic storage bins that have
been painted or can be purchased in brown,
green or black, and covered with black
plastic material can be placed in discrete
places out of sight. To make them more
waterproof, flap-like awnings can be
created from heavy plastic sheets or
garbage bags and duct tape to further
protect the food and provide camouflage.
Refer to Sheltering and
Feeding Stations.
It is important not
to discuss with strangers, how
many cats there are and where they are
being fed. Keep your conversations
confined to your circle of trusted
friends. When you feed, if indicated,
check the surroundings. Does it feel and
look safe? If not, wait a while before you
bring out the food.
If the feeding areas have not been
properly maintained and this is the only
complaint, follow the proper guidelines.
Go out of your way to assure anyone
complaining that you will make every
effort to maintain a properly cared for
area.
It only takes one complaint to
jeopardize their chances to be fed and
cared for. Your decisions and choices
should be made with this in mind.
Food
We recommend, if
possible, a good quality of dry
and canned food be available for your
feral cats and kittens. Inexpensive food
will fill an empty belly, in the short
term, but in the long term, you can have
malnourished unhealthy cats and kittens,
susceptible to disease and sickness. Feral
cats, living out of doors are under
considerable more stress than the cats
living inside your home. They require
extra nourishment to maintain a healthy
immune system. Depending upon your
financial resources, you may need to
contact local pet stores and animal
welfare organizations for food donations.
Garage and bake sales, car washes and
other ways of raising money can be
helpful. If you know other people who are
feeding or you have friends who could get
together and form a group to help
transport food and feed, this can relieve
some of the burden. Do not hesitate to ask
at the local markets, religious
organizations and other places for
donations for food. Use every resource you
can think of for assistance. Initially,
you may be the only person the feral cats
and kittens have to care for them. It is a
long- term commitment.
Cleanliness
Feral cats living in close proximity to
private residences, public places,
businesses and so on, roam around the
immediate areas. They will also use these
areas for their litter box needs. This can
be another common complaint, and reinforce
the "myth" that "cats are dirty and
unhealthy" to have around. Persons will
not take kindly to picking up noticeable
and odorous cat litter from their area.
Just as there are dog scoopers and bags
for deposits, the caretaker may need to
keep an area cat feces clean. Many
caretakers use litter boxes in areas where
cat feces is a problem. If the boxes are
outside a structure, they will need to be
covered. Keeping them clean will also be
one of the responsibilities of feral cat
caretaking. If males are spraying on cars
and other public places, a spray bottle
with deodorizer will be required to
alleviate the problem. We have also
recommended car covers for unwanted paw
prints. Take a walk around the area and
see if anything needs your attention.
Usually, once the males are neutered, the
spraying is reduced or stops. Cleanliness
and neatness will prevent a lot of
problems from arising.
Feral cat caretaking is labor intensive
and requires commitment and responsible
choices, but in the long run, the rewards
far outweigh the time and effort. You can
close your eyes at night knowing that you
have made a very important and
compassionate contribution to the
"homeless ones", and to the community they
live in. There may be times when you may
question this, but rest assured, your
contribution is priceless.
Nothing is more
time consuming and stressful for a
caretaker than being confronted with a
situation where the cats "must be gotten
rid of" because of complaints that might
have been avoided.
Negotiating
For Their Right To Stay And Be Cared For
Unfortunately, there are many
circumstances when the caretaker is
confronted with a hostile situation and
negotiations for the feral cats right to
stay and be cared for at their home site
becomes an urgent priority. In addition,
their very lives may be in jeopardy. If
the caretaker, or person who has taken the
responsibility of caring for the cats,
does not have the necessary skills or is
too emotionally involved to negotiate, a
friend, relative or experienced person
connected with an animal welfare
organization will be required. There are
instances when the situation is so
emotionally charged, that face to face
communication is not possible for the
caretaker. Someone who can present a
rational and informed presentation is
essential. At the start of official
negotiations, come prepared with all of
the documents and information that is
available and be well versed in any
questions that may be asked. Negotiations
go smoother when all parties are well
informed about the situation and what
needs to be done to resolve the problem. Do your homework.
A calm and understanding manner will go a
long way in negotiating.
What are the issues
confronting you and what do you need to
resolve the situation?
Distribution of For All Interested
and Concerned Parties is a
good place to start. I have found that the
more printed materials you have that are
educational, the better your chances are
to shift from emotional and aggressive
stance to a more linear approach. Arrange
everything in a colored folder with your
card as if you were giving the most
important presentation in your life. All
printed materials should be professional
and neat. I have used this method under
extreme conditions in board meetings and
meetings in alleys. Bring plenty of
portfolios for everyone. No one should go away
empty handed.
Some of the issues confronting you can
range from the cats not being spayed or
neutered, thereby creating nuisance
situations with mating, spraying and
yowling and other disturbing behavior. If
the cats have not been spayed or neutered,
Refer to
Instructions for Humane Trapping of
Feral or Rescued Cats and Kittens.
This document should also be included in
the informational document, for
negotiating. Other issues can include sick
kittens, nursing mothers, paw prints on
cars, cats using open public or private
areas as litter boxes or persons who just
"want to get rid of them". It can be the
absence, death or illness of a caretaker.
Every situation is unique and there are
countless circumstances that can warrant
negotiations and action of some nature.
Some will require a simple and
straightforward resolution, while others
will be more complicated. However, each
one will need to be carefully evaluated
and acted upon according to the
circumstances.
Keep
a record of the complaint and complaining
person or persons, with names and phone
numbers. Be very professional and official
in your demeanor. After you have gathered
the pros and cons of the situation, you
need to decide what action to take. Go
over each complaint and determine what
needs to be done to remedy the situation.
Identify those persons who are cat
friendly and form a group of volunteers
and advocates from them. If there are no
cat friendly persons, then you will need
to negotiate with whomever is complaining.
The For All Interested
and Concerned Parties
document includes statistics for the Los
Angeles area, but is also applicable in
content to areas throughout the United
States.
Having pertinent educational materials,
professionally presented, is essential.
Situations that seemed hopeless have
turned around, with the cats being cared
for safely at their original home site.
Moving
Feeding Stations To Nearby Site For
Continued Care
If negotiations fail for the cats to
remain at their home site or the area is
being demolished, under construction or
there are other hazards present, moving
the feeding stations to a nearby location
could be a viable option. In many cases,
moving the feeding stations off the
property in question or on the same
property to a safer location may be all
that is required. Canvas
the area and use your common sense. Talk
with persons in the adjacent and
surrounding areas as to the possibility
of locating permanent feeding stations.
Once again, leave For all Interested
and Concerned Parties
document and educational materials with
your name and phone number or create your
own document or flyer for a particular
situation. If indicated, talk to managers,
tenants, neighbors, homeowners and
businesses in the area, but stay within a
reasonable radius. In cases where the area
is industrial or commercial, private homes
or small businesses adjacent to the larger
areas can be good places for permanent
feeding stations. Be creative. Talk to
other caretakers, your local pet rescue
organizations, get advice and assistance.
Try not to be intimidated. Be friendly,
informative and persevere. More
importantly, no matter how the
circumstances present or how bleak they
may look, always
personally question everyone and
make your own contacts and come to your
own conclusions after the situation has
been thoroughly assessed. We have had
people tell us the situation was hopeless,
no one would ever cooperate and so on. The
results were just the opposite once we
began personally talking to people in the
area and presenting our case.
Once you have found a nearby area that is
safe, and the parties involved have agreed
to the move, you can proceed. Feeding
stations can be moved approximately 20
feet at a time until you reach the new
location. A temporary enclosure can be
made to cover the feeding station for
protection and make it less noticeable.
After most of the cats show up to eat,
feed them for a week at the location
before moving another 20 feet. However
each situation is different and there may
be a time constraint. Use your good
judgement in moving feeding stations, it
could take more or less time. A tasty
canned food for each move is necessary to
draw their attention to the new area, as
well as dribbling some of it around, if
ants are not a problem.
The cats should have some shelter at their
new feeding area. For example, if the food
is being moved a few houses away or one
building away from their present location,
chances are they will be familiar with the
territory. However, if their only shelter
is at the old location, unless it is being
demolished or renovated, they will
probably return there. No matter what
precautions you take, feral cats are
free-roaming and will go where they
please. The most important aspect of this
endeavor is that they are not being fed on
the property in question. New shelter
should be available for them, so that food
can be placed nearby to discourage them
from returning to their old home site,
especially if it is unsafe. There may be
adequate shelter in the area where they
are being moved. Enclosed places that are
dry and can be made warm for the winter
are best. We have placed heavy duty black
plastic and waterproof tarps over wooden
palates that were stacked up permanently
and then slid cut up pieces of cardboard
in between the openings on the bottom. The
cats were already hiding in the wooden
palates for shelter and this just made it
waterproof and warmer. Everything was
easily replaced. Refer to Sheltering and
Feeding Stations.
This method does not require trapping,
unless the cats are not been spayed or
neutered. If this is the case, surgery can
be performed either before or after the
final destination of moving the feeding
stations. Circumstances vary and the
decision as to how this is coordinated
into the move should be made by the
caretaker and persons involved in the
welfare of the cats.
Agreements
Once any form of agreement has been
negotiated, take the necessary steps to
implement whatever has been agreed to. In
some cases, a simply written agreement is
appropriate or in other instances a more
comprehensive one may be required. A
written agreement can be a valuable
reference when negotiating as an example
of success and trustworthiness. It can
also act to absolve the caretakers of any
liability while caretaking. It outlines
specifically what is being done and by
whom and is a good accumulative resource
record. Refer to Agreements.
Relocation
To Areas When Trapping Is Required
If there are no other options and the
cats must be removed from their present
location, your only alternative will be to
trap and relocate to a pre-negotiated and
safe place. Trapping and relocation can be
as close as a mile away to a residential
area in backyards, to farms, horse ranches
or any rural area or city area that is
safe and a permanent caretaker and shelter
is available. There are stringent
guidelines for relocating feral cats.
There are numerous ways to make contact
with persons who will accept feral cats
for relocation. You can advertise in the
local and rural newspapers, write letters
to farms, horse ranches and other suitable
areas. Put up flyers in pet stores,
veterinary offices, markets and any place
where the public can see the notice.
Contact your local humane societies,
rescue groups and other animal welfare
agencies for contacts and information.
Talk to all of your friends who may have
backyards or know of a safe place to
relocate.
Since feral cats form colonies (families)
that are very close, a lot will depend
upon how many will need to be relocated.
It is always better to relocate at least 2
together from a colony, if not more,
depending upon how much space is
available. Relocation is worrisome and
stressful for all concerned and should
only be considered
if all else fails.
If the cats have not been spayed or
neutered, this will need to be done prior
to relocation. Refer to Instructions for
Humane Trapping of Feral or Rescued Cats
and Kittens.
After you have made contact with a
prospective relocation area, you will need
to go there and negotiate an agreement as
to where and how the cats will be cared
for. Inquiries as to what dangers there
are at the location, such as coyotes and
other predators is important. Relocation
to places where the cats will be preyed
upon is not acceptable.
Guidelines
During the journey to their new home,
make the trip as stress free as possible.
Do not play loud music or create a lot of
noise while traveling with the cats. Be
sure there is enough ventilation in their
carriers, crates or whatever enclosure you
have them in for the trip. Under no
circumstances put a cat in the trunk or
open bed of a truck. They must be
protected from any condition that will
create stress. Depending upon the length
of their journey, be sure they are
provided with water and food, even though
they may not partake. Make them as
comfortable as possible and keep them
covered appropriately to lessen their fear
of being enclosed and in a strange
environment. Check on them frequently to
be sure they are not suffering from car
sickness or hyperventilating. Cats do not
adjust easily to change and this change is
a very serious one for them to adjust to.
If they have recently had surgery, make
sure they have recovered sufficiently for
the journey. They are being taken to an
entirely strange and frightening place
where there are no familiar smells or
landmarks to boundary their territory.
They will be enclosed for 4 weeks or more
in a strange place that is totally
different from what they have experienced.
Every effort should be made to make their
journey and confinement experience as calm
and protective as possible.
Their new home must be adequately prepared
before their arrival.
The four week confinement should be in a
safe, enclosed, water
proof and escape proof dwelling, on the
premises. It can be a guestroom,
laundry room, garage, barn, out-buildings,
storage areas, spare rooms or any place
with light and good ventilation. Keep in
mind that the place where the cats will be
confined should also be their safe haven
when released. They will need to have
access to and from this location. Litter
boxes will be required. Create safe places
for them. If in a small room, place
bedding and boxes for them to hid and
sleep in. Cardboard boxes or carriers with
blankets and bedding make good hiding
places and are warm for sleeping. They can
also be covered with blankets or towels to
make them more cozy and safer for hiding.
If they are in a large area, put their
boxes, carriers, litter box and food in a
more confined space, rather than
scattering it about. Keep everything away
from the door and away from drafts during
the winter. When entering and leaving the
area, create a barrier in front of you and
behind you, such as a piece of cardboard,
towel, etc. Enter and leave carefully to
see that no one escapes. Most of the time
the cats will hide and stay as far away as
possible, but there may be a brave one who
will try to escape. It is best to do the
feeding and cleaning during the daylight
hours.
A trap should be available at the
relocation home along with trapping
instructions.
If a cat escapes out of the room, create a
safe and dry shelter with special wet food
and water next to the place where it
escaped from. Put as many things with
their smells on it, perhaps the carrier or
crate used during the trip. Re-trapping
the cat should be attempted right away for
the four- week period of confinement. We
had one cat escape and as a result, the
time of confinement for everyone was
extended until the re-introduced cat had
stayed the four weeks. However, no one
seemed to mind, as it was safe, warm and
cozy with big windows for sunning.
However, if there is no success in
re-trapping, be sure that the above noted
instructions for feeding and shelter are
provided for the escapee. Also, be alert
to sighting the cat as it may find a new
place to hide. If you manage to locate the
cat, provide food and shelter near the
area where it is hiding, since the food
and water is enclosed in the room with the
other cats and there would be no access to
it. Depending upon how long a time it has
been since it escaped, you might also try
setting the trap and if successful, return
it to the new relocation holding room,
with a little longer stay for those
already there.
One relocation that we accomplished
resulted in a little gray tabby (very)
feral female named Gracie not wanting to
leave her new found home (the bridle room
for horses) where she had spent a few more
than the usual required four weeks. The
cat door was opened, then the big door,
people came and went, horses walked by, no
amount of coaxing with food or anything
else could get Gracie to leave the bridle
room. When all was quiet, she would sun
herself by the big window and when people
came, she would hide. But, she never left
the bridle room. Finally, after three
months, a big towel was wrapped around her
and she was pushed and squeezed into a
carrier and taken to a beautiful
guesthouse furnished with priceless
antiques. There were eight other special
felines living in this luxurious (indoor
only) guesthouse. Gracie has lived there
for three years now and still no one can
touch her. She sleeps on a very expensive
antique bed and is quite content. However,
the other cats at the relocation site,
after their confinement period was up,
flew out the door and have remained on the
property in barns and in other safe
dwellings. Not Gracie, she had her eyes on
that guesthouse and lives there in
absolute luxury and safety. We call the
good lady at Christmas to thank her and
hear all about Gracie.
Caretaking
A vital aspect of relocation is the new
caretaker. The new caretaker or caretakers
should be totally committed and
responsible in assuring the feral cats
will be taken care of with compassion,
patience and understanding. The caretaker
will be feeding and tending to the needs
of the cats and it is important that they
spend some time talking with them at least
three times a day. They will soon become
accustomed to the smells and voices
associated with their food and new home
and this will reassure them, even though
they may never come out of hiding. The
objective is to provide a safe and
lifetime home for the feral cats who have
been relocated. After they have been
allowed out of their initial space
following the four week period of
confinement, it is essential that at least
one, and if possible two small openings be
available for them to enter and leave
their original shelter area as they
please. They will become frightened easily
and will require easy access to the only
safe place they know. They may find
another safe shelter area, if there are
several buildings on the property, such as
barns, garages, etc., but it is best to
let them decide.
Once released, the new caretakers should
observe them as closely as possible, keep
a daily head count and watch for any signs
of problems. Plentiful wet food along with
dry food on a daily basis is a necessity.
The food should be of good quality and
fresh water available at all times. If
they are participating in rodent control,
they will still require daily feeding with
nourishing food. Contrary to popular
opinion, cats cannot remain healthy on a
diet of rodents. Many will not eat them
unless near starvation.
Most ranches and farms have dogs living on
the premises. It is important the dogs see
the cats as residents and are not allowed
to harm them once they are out of their
shelter to roam around. Carefully evaluate
any situation where dogs are present and
the possibility of them harming the cats,
before you decide
on the relocation. It may be
necessary to confine the dogs for a
reasonable period of time, to allow the
cats to become accustomed to their new
surroundings, before being confronted with
the dogs. Feral cats do not take kindly to
dogs as they have been living out of doors
in unsafe conditions, and are exposed to
all types of dangers, including dogs that
kill cats and kittens. It will be a big
enough adjustment for them to familiarize
themselves with their new home, without
being chased or frightened unnecessarily,
even if the dogs would never harm them.
The cats do not know this. If there are
gardeners working on the property, they
should be informed about the use of
harmful pesticides and discontinue use
where the cats are residing. Persons on
the premises need to be notified of the
cats living there and every effort made to
create a safe and compassionate
environment.
The persons or organizations who brought
the cats to their new home should be in
contact with the new caretaker during the
weeks while in confinement and then weekly
following release, to be sure they are all
accounted for and adjusting well.
Continued follow-up is needed and during
the years they live in their new home.
Communication between all concerned
parties is essential.
Dona Cosgrove Baker, President and
Founder, Feral Cat Caretakers’ Coalition
|